[Zoodulcis]

He looks ready to come and take those crickets by force! How old is he?

[Zoodulcis]

This is a splendid enclosure and well thought out for the pets comfort and entertainment/exercise. Is the little one actually in this picture? It would be nice to have a close up of your guy/gal so we know what it looks like at this point.

[Zoodulcis]

Sounds like an awesome project. My suggestion would be to consider access for either cleaning or removing your friend for a bit of one on one time. Top-only access in a heavily vegetated enclosure can be really inconvenient. The bioactive setup will ensure that cleaning is kept to a minimum, but you may occasionally need to trim or replace plants, or you may want to readjust the furniture from time to time, depending upon the usage of various areas and items that your crestie uses for loafing or basking. So a hatch in the front as well as the top can save you some aggravation and make it easier to take your friend out without having to loom over the enclosure with a hand reaching down to grab, which bothers a lot of reptiles who interpret the action as a predatory move.

Best of luck with your project and be sure to post pix of it and your crestie when it’s all completed.

[Zoodulcis]

That’s right, I thought I remembered you had quite the zoo at your place. Are the chickens any special breed? I used to have silkies and silver laced Polish chickens and I just loved them.

[Zoodulcis]

Lucky you, he seems like an awesome score. Sometimes it just happens that way. You have lots of other reptiles, I believe?

[Zoodulcis]

He is just lovely! Why would the former owners rehome such a beauty?

[Zoodulcis]

You are being needlessly anxious. Give him a week of no disturbance whatsoever, other than changing the water, and he should be right as rain and ready to eat and poop. We naturally want to provide for new pets immediately as a way of showing love, but relocating reptiles is really stressful for 90% of reptile species and they need time to adjust and decompress from the transfer experience.

[Zoodulcis]

I have heard of iguanas being able to survive cold Great Basin winters by finding a warm spot. I do wonder how this little guy managed.

[Zoodulcis]

A shame about the vets in your area. I have had that same experience with some vets, but not others.

Just to be clear, I am a zoologist and not a vet, so this advice may be different from what a medical professional might offer.

It is impossible to know whether or not you should administer the supplement and the Pedialyte simultaneously without knowing the ingredients of the supplement. To be on the safe side, I would soak him for only 15 minutes in the Pedialyte on any day that the supplement is administered. Also, I would not dose him with the supplement daily, but rather every other day. Force-feeding, even of a liquid, is going to be super stressful for him. Stress itself can greatly lower the immune system, so if it was me I would do it every other day to give him a full 48 hours to decompress.

[Zoodulcis]

Since he pooped well and you know he isn’t constipated, a honey bath won’t do much. Instead, to keep him going until he regains his appetite, try this…Plain, clear, unflavored pedialyte mixed to a 1:10 part ratio with luke warm dechlorinated water. Soak for 30 minutes. If you’ve never used it, it is sold in the infant section of any Walmart or Kmart, etc. and in the kids medicine section at any grocery store.

Do this only once a day. Empty the solution out and refill the dish with dechlorinated tap water. Why tap water? Because it has critical trace elements and minerals to help him with his metabolism and osmotic balance. This should buy you time for another week. If he still refuses even a morsel you may need to force-feed him an insect mush using a syringe in a week’s time. Some keepers have had good luck force-feeding herptivite every couple of days. A frog in good condition originally should be able to go for a month with no food if they are soaked in pedialyte daily.

And of course, the advice no forum member ever wants to hear, a trip to the vet may be necessary.

[Zoodulcis]

Best way to win is to get all of your friends to log in and give you a critter gold.

[Zoodulcis]

These are the first of their kind posted on the forum. How did you get started with them?

[Zoodulcis]

And these new parents are what species of lizard?

[Zoodulcis]

Greetings, below is an excerpt from the White’s Frog Care Guide available on the Critter Depot site.

“Most tropical plants can be planted right on top of the screening for the drainage level of the substrate. The roots will go through the screen eventually, lending additional support to the plant. If you decide to remove the plant for some reason, bear this in mind in order to avoid ripping out more of the substrate than you intended. Popular choices include begonias, philodendron, pothos, aloe, spider plants, ficus, and dracaenas. They can be planted directly into the enclosure substrate and lightly watered a few times a week. Pepperomia sp., Hoya sp., and a number of attractive tropical mosses can make for a nice tableau. Small bromeliads for decorative purposes are sometimes used, but can rot if kept continually damp. If they are used, the keeper may need to replace them annually. Floating Crystalwort (Riccia fluitans), is a favorite of arboreal frog keepers as a carpet forming plant. As long as it is kept moist it will grow like a weed and the frogs love it.”

Hope this was helpful. Several of the care guides on the site go into great detail about bio-active set-ups, although the White’s guide is not one of them. Perhaps you will find the wisdom you seek by cruising through the various guides and getting a feel for the pros and cons of bio-active set-ups, which I am actually a big fan of.

[Zoodulcis]

Looks like a nice healthy salad. Do you dust the greens with anything?

[Author]

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