- High protein (30% - 60%)
- High fat (40 - 70%)
- Low carbohydrates and indigestible fiber
Dubia Roaches
- Protein - 46%
- Fat - 24%
- Calcium - 5.8
- Phosphorous - 5.9
- Calcium:Phosphorus Ratio - 1:1.01
- Fiber - 8%
Crickets
- Protein - 66%
- Fat - 22%
- Calcium - 2.1
- Phosphorous - 7.8
- Calcium:Phosphorus Ratio - 1:3.7
- Fiber - 12%
Protein
Looking closer, both dubias and crickets offer an abundant amount of protein. Dubias's protein content is right in between the recommended 40-60%, which means they are great to use throughout the entire life span of your reptile. Crickets rate modestly on the high side of protein, which means they are going to be a better feeder for when your pet is young and growing, compared to a fully grown adult.Calcium and Phosphorus
Two of the most important minerals for carnivorous animals to receive are calcium and phosphorous. More important than the level of each mineral within a food item is the ratio of calcium to phosphorous in the overall diet. Reptiles need phosphorous in order to process calcium, so the relationship between them is important. Experts recommend that the calcium-to-phosphorous ratio somewhere around 2:1. As you can see, both crickets and dubia roaches fall short on this ratio. So it's important to dust both crickets and dubias roaches with calcium powder. This will boost that ratio to the desired 2:1. If dusting is a problem, black soldier fly larvae are an amazing feeder that naturally yields the target calcium to phosphorus ratio. Both crickets and dubia roaches have their pro's and con's, and guide dives into deeper detail between their comparison. But the reality is your pet is going to want a variety of feeder insects. And offering both will yield a happier, healthier pet. [post_title] => Crickets or Dubias - which is your preferred feeder? [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => crickets-or-dubias-which-is-your-preferred-feeder [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2021-11-12 05:47:27 [post_modified_gmt] => 2021-11-12 10:47:27 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 177 [guid] => https://critterfam.com/?post_type=topic&p=28434 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => topic [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [2] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 28405 [post_author] => 19167 [post_date] => 2021-11-10 09:51:29 [post_date_gmt] => 2021-11-10 14:51:29 [post_content] => For the past few days, my baby pac has been fully burrowed! Up to his eys. He hasn't done this since monday. His temperatures are just right sitting around 77-80 degrees, his humidity is usually always 60-80 and he's mostly eating and pooping normally, so why is he burrowing deep down? It scares me sometimes because he is just at the bottom of his substrate touching the bottom of the tank. I've been moving him out of his burrow to feed, but other than that should I leave him down there? Is he going into hibernation and if so how do I stop him from that? I am a pretty anxious person so I'm not sure if this might just be me being too cautious. [post_title] => Baby Pacman fully burrowing! [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => baby-pacman-fully-burrowing [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2021-11-11 05:54:20 [post_modified_gmt] => 2021-11-11 10:54:20 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 69 [guid] => https://critterfam.com/forums/topic/baby-pacman-fully-burrowing/ [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => topic [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [3] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 28017 [post_author] => 455 [post_date] => 2021-10-01 10:11:05 [post_date_gmt] => 2021-10-01 14:11:05 [post_content] => Yoshi is a citrus leatherback bearded dragon. I love her soooo much I take her out at least once a day to play! She will be turning 8 years old this year. [post_title] => My bearded dragon yoshi [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => my-bearded-dragon-yoshi [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2021-10-01 10:11:05 [post_modified_gmt] => 2021-10-01 14:11:05 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 64 [guid] => https://critterfam.com/forums/topic/my-bearded-dragon-yoshi/ [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => topic [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [4] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 28382 [post_author] => 19595 [post_date] => 2021-11-07 21:05:24 [post_date_gmt] => 2021-11-08 02:05:24 [post_content] => I’m building a breeding rack for ball pythons. What heat tape do you recommend? [post_title] => Heat tape question [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => heat-tape-question [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2021-11-07 21:05:24 [post_modified_gmt] => 2021-11-08 02:05:24 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 63 [guid] => https://critterfam.com/forums/topic/heat-tape-question/ [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => topic [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [5] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 28376 [post_author] => 6 [post_date] => 2021-11-06 22:06:34 [post_date_gmt] => 2021-11-07 02:06:34 [post_content] => Superworms? mealworms? Tan crawlies? What's the difference? Both feeder insects come from the dame darkling beetle family. But although they are related, they are not the same, and will not supply the same nutrients for your pet. Most reptiles have specific fat and protein requirements from the food they eat. And superworms meet those needs much more than mealworms. Superworms also have a much better calcium-to-phosphorus ratio. But, they will still need to be dusted with calcium powder. Ultimately, superworms are a better food source than mealworms. And you can find the breakdown of thedifferences in the article.
[post_title] => Superworms or mealworms? What's the difference?
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[post_content] => My baby pacman frog hasn't pooped for a few days, should i be concerned or is this normal?
[post_title] => Baby Pacman hasn't pooped for 4+ days H
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[post_content] => I have 4 wild-caught grey tree frogs in a vivarium. Two of them seem to be doing fine but the other two don't seem to be doing well. I don't have access to a vet so I've been researching everywhere trying to help them.
Tiny doesn't look too good. He used to be a happy tree frog, he was almost green, loved to sit on his little leaf, and would devour crickets, but now he's a dark color and looking skinny. He's always on the ground now and hasn't been interested in food for almost two weeks now. He's quite weak and seems to be getting weaker.
My other tree frog, Hopper, is a little bit bigger. His case seems to be a bit different from Tiny's. He spends a lot of time on the ground, but unlike tiny, he's still a nice green color. He also still goes after food but seems to be a lot clumsier than he used to. He has these odd spasms with his head, where he wobbles it side to side almost every time he moves. He climbs when he wants to but has trouble doing so. A while ago I figured out that using filtered water from the fridge was bad for them. I then switched them over to treated water. I soaked Hopper in treated tap water thinking it was toxic shock syndrome but it didn't seem to be doing much. I even tried the same thing with Tiny later on. I'm thinking maybe I should keep soaking them? I'm worried about stressing them out but I don't know if I did it long or often enough.
I once noticed red patches near their legs. I thought this was red-leg and was immediately worried, but this seemed to go away in a couple days or so. I assumed it could have been due to stress but I didn't know what from, I have 3 sides of the cage covered and they never seemed to have a problem. I dust their crickets frequently with Vitamins and calcium.
Tiny is looking very bad and I don't feel he's going to live much longer. He just kind of flops when I move him and doesn't look good. I've started to wonder if humanely euthanizing him with benzocaine or something is the right thing to do, I don't want to see him suffer...
If anyone has any advice, I would really appreciate it. I'm at a loss here and am hoping to find some answers.
[post_title] => Grey Tree Frog Dying???!! Help!
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[post_content] => The past few days i've been working on tong feeding with my baby, it was going well when I was trying with crickets, but when I decided to try nightcrawlers, he would not take it from the tong. He even started turning a full circle to get away from the worm, its now been since Sunday since he ate, which was just a cricket that he took straight off the tongs. Yesterday when I tried he wouldn't eat the worm, and then he wouldn't eat the cricket which I tried to give him after he wouldn't take the worm. Why won't he eat the worms? Should I just keep persisting with it?
[post_title] => Baby Pacman wont eat nightcrawlers
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Baby Pacman wont eat nightcrawlers
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Crickets or Dubias – which is your preferred feeder?
Should I buy crickets? They are cheaper, abundantly available, and decently nutritious. Or should I buy dubia roaches? They are more nutritional, less smelly, and ship better in cold…
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Baby Pacman fully burrowing!
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Grey Tree Frog Dying???!! Help!
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