Will this light work?

[John]

So I had a coil uv bulb for my bearded dragon, it blew out and the people at my local petstore told me this light is better for a bearded dragon. So I bought it instead. It is in a 35 gallon tank. Is this light good enough?

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[Zoodulcis]

I believe this light is insufficient. You may want to get a second one, or take it back to the shop and get something larger.

[ABMoore22]

Ive replied to this a few times and so far none are showing up. You dont wanna use this though. These types of short bulbs dont give out enough uv, no matter what they say. I can add links to all the bulbs and fixtures youll need. If youd like.

[ABMoore22]

Links wont work, sorry. Copy and paste these on amazon and theyll show you exactly what you need.

bulb uv: Zoo Med 26061 Reptisun 10.0 T5-Ho Uvb 24W Fluorescent Lamp, 22″

Fixture: Jump Start JSFC2T T5 Fixture with Lamp, Reflector and Timer, 2′, 2 Foot, Silver

Heat/basking: Zoo Med Repti Basking Spot Bulb, 100 watt, E27 threaded base, set of 2 bulbs

You will also need and 8.5 inch dome fixture for the heat bulb: Zilla Black Reflector Dome Lamp

[John]

I have the heating part done right. I have a 150 watt heat bulb in a dome and it keeps it about 105 degrees in the tank. I just get messed up on the uv light. The petstore lady told me I needed the fixture for $60 and a different light for it which they sell also for $54. Seemed kind of expensive so she talked me into getting the above for $45 and said it is what she uses for her bearded dragons. I will take a look at what you posted.
Thanks

[John]

So $60 will cover it cause I have the heating right. I think? Heating/basing is basically the same right? I have a 150 watt heat bulb above where he lays at and is around 105 there. I can’t remember the name of it, Zilla I think it is or Zoo Med 150 watt day heat bulb for reptiles.

[Zoodulcis]

I think that AB’s recommendations are closer to what you want. The petstore lady does have a vested interest in selling expensive equipment, whereas AB does not.

Once you have made the investment in the hood, which you never have to replace in my experience, you will need to buy two replacement bulbs a year. Reptisun 10 costs under $20 dollars, so in the course of a year, you only have to spend about $35 on lighting, after the initial set-up is purchased. That’s not too bad a price to pay for keeping your pet healthy and happy. About $3 per month seems pretty reasonable. You can even get the bulbs delivered by Chewy.

[ABMoore22]

Yup, that bulb will work fine for basking/heat. I just had to get the tropical equivalent for our Chameleon. You will see a difference in your pet! He now will UV bask (flattening himself out to absorb as much as he can), when he didn’t before.

I also have come to find that most pet store employees are not properly trained in a lot of pet info. Some are, but that rare and they usually teach themselves. I don’t let much of what they say hold much weight and double check just about everything they say. Seems mean, but I’ve had pets die, twice, because I listened to pet shop employee’s. From that point on I learned as much as I could, aiming at studies backed by science. I hope the lighting helps your beardie!

[John]

Thanks for the help. Just so I’m sure what I am doing. I need that bulb for around $18 and the hood? Do I still keep my heat bulb with a dome?

[ABMoore22]

Youre welcome! We’ve all been there. That’s what this site is for.
Yes, keep your basking bulb with the dome. That is for heat regulation. And yes, the $18 bulb and hood are also needed. That is a UV bulb for healthy bones, digestion and health (they get all that from the sun in the wild. In a home, we need 2 different types of bulbs.). That bulb is high output and a special size that’s what T5 (bulb size) and HO (high output) means on the package. These are usually considered the best kinds in the pet trade. You keep all this up and running, youll have a happy, healthy beardie. You will also need Calcium powder (without D3) and Vitamins and mineral powder (with D3).

2-3 times per week, sprinkle food offered to bearded dragons with a calcium powder, not containing vitamin D3 And an additional 2-3 times a week, sprinkle food with a calcium powder containing vitamin D3. This powder schedule may differ depending on your beardies age. The Zoologist on here would know more on that for sure. Id check out the bearded dragon care guild on this site as well. Its at the top on the page.

[Zoodulcis]

ABs advice is right on. This is the best strategy for ensuring the longest, healthiest life for your little friend. The expense is well worth it and should prevent costly veterinary visits.

[ABMoore22]

Here is a good youtube channel with info if your’e interested. I only share channels if I find their advice/info to be correct and helpful, but feel free to do your own research any time you are unsure!
It talks about bulbs as well:

[John]

I ordered the fixture and bulb you told me about Friday, it says it will be delivered Monday. Do I keep the reflector on it since the reflector is made of plastic? Also my tank has one of those screen tops on it. Can I just sit the light on there? I want to be sure so when I get it Monday I can get it set up as fast as possible.

[ABMoore22]

Yeah, i left it on mine. its not a heat lamp so wont melt it. And i did set it on the screen also

[John]

That light was delivered today. Would it make any difference in like 15 minutes, cause he seems like he is moving more and he is looking for food which he hardly ever did. He has veggies in his tank, but no other food and he always ate his veggies. He actually left his hammock also, which is surprising he does seem more active after only 15 minutes.

[ABMoore22]

I dont know how fast they are supposed to work but I know my Chameleon reacted much in the same way. He basks equally with the heat lamp and the uvb now. The way I see it, if hes acting more natural than he was, its a great sign that its doing its job. As Zoo said though, I would keep checking the temp. They do give off a light heat, but not enough to melt the reflector. Mine just seems like a slight warmth and maybe raises the temp by a degree, depending on the time of day. Im also using a screen enclosure though.

[John]

Today he just laid on his hammock all day. He only left his hammock to eat, then right back to it he went. I have the uv light on the same end as the hammock and it only covers a little part of it. I have the heat bulb on the other end. Should the heat light be on the same end or leave it where it is? I will attach a picture of the lights. The one furthest from the uv light is the heat light and the other one is a ceramic heat emitter just to be on the safe side. Is that setup good or should I change something?

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[Zoodulcis]

AB is correct that it will not melt the plastic or hurt the screen. It may give off a gentle heat, like a heating pad on a low setting, that may raise the temperature in the habitat a degree or two. Once it’s set-up and has been on a couple of hours, monitor the heat throughout to make sure there is still an acceptable temperature gradient for your guy so he can get out of the heat occasionally.

[John]

I kept an eye on the temperature today and it stayed pretty much the same. If anything it went up 1-2 degrees but not much. I have a heat gun but it doesn’t read temperatures right. Unless I am doing something wrong with it also. It is just point and shoot with no adjustments made cause I do not have that option.

[Zoodulcis]

One to two degrees seems about right. I’m wondering if the basking spot directly beneath the heat lamp is a little too warm for him right now. An accurate reading about 5-6 inches below the heat lamp might help to determine that. It could be one reason he is sticking with the hammock.

[ABMoore22]

I agree with Zoo. Bearded Dragons love basking, the only time ive heard of a sun loving lizard not bask is if its too hot. Id try raising the heat lamp a few inches and see if that helps. I also read the temp according to where my reptiles back will be, not the ground under the heat. Usually a few inches above ground level, ill check temp there.
I set my lamps up like this: Basking/heat on one end and uv next to it, spread across the other side of the enclosure.

[Zoodulcis]

Yep, I concur.

[John]

I’ve attached a picture to the other reply. I guess it isn’t showing up. I will raise the light a little bit to see if that helps.

[John]

The lights will be going off in a few minutes so I will raise it tomorrow. Here is a picture of the light setup. If it works this time. The light furthest from the uv light is the heat light, the other is a ceramic heat emitter I turn on at night just in case.

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[John]

Picture will not attach.

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[John]

I give up.

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[John]

So I can’t add an attachment as a reply? Only if I start a topic? A picture of how I have the lights set up is under the topic titled delete this just checking. Is it only me or can’t any add pictures to a reply?

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[Zoodulcis]

This seems like a very sensible set-up. Is he still hanging out on the hammock to the exclusion of all other possible spots?

[John]

Either on the hammock or under it. The heat bulb just burned out after 2 weeks. It seems like every 2 weeks I have to buy a new heat bulb. They are the zoo med brand I believe. The silver dome I have is good enough? I am tired of buying the bulbs every 2 weeks, they aren’t cheap. They are around $15 here.

[ABMoore22]

that seems great. The only thing I would change is move the corner of the uv to the other corner of tank so its spread across and not just the back. so he can get good uv any where on that side.
Ill add a pic with yellow where im meaning.

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[Zoodulcis]

I agree, sorta. If it was me I would wait for a month until the bulb is a little older. That way there is less exposure to the beardie’s eyes from the maximum output of a fresh bulb. But after about 3-4 weeks, I agree it should be repositioned.

[ABMoore22]

Great detail. I hadn’t thought of how new it was. They are much more strong in the beginning. Thank you.

[Zoodulcis]

My pleasure. Truly. It is so true that the devil is in the details. On the other hand, I do think the health of our pets is in the details. As was said in Harry Potter and other places, CONSTANT VIGILANCE!

[John]

Well I got him a new heat bulb since the other burned out. I went with a 100 watt instead of the 150 watt. I must say with the smaller heat bulb and the uv light you guys recommended, he is moving around more. He is actually chasing the crickets instead of waiting for them to come to him. He also dint seem to be hanging around his hammock as much, but he is going to the end with his magnatural rock. He is going under it though, so probably still a little to warm there even though the temp gun says 104 and the stick on says 107 degrees. Should I still raise the heat light?

[Zoodulcis]

Gosh that’s a tough one, but since one indicator reads 107, which is too much, I think I would err on the side of caution and raise it just a bit for a couple of days. Read the temperature at least three times per day after you re-adjust the lamp. It seems to me that the improvements made so far are going in the right direction, if his behavior is any indication. Just a bit could be two inches. Then measure, measure, measure and observe both the temperature readings and his behavior.

[John]

I just found out the temp gun has a setting on it for surface and I had to change it to that. The hot side of his tank reads 100.7 under the heat light, the middle reads 88.3 and the cool side reads 83.7. He has been on the end with the heat light all day and not moved. He ate 2 crickets, and he just waited for them to go by him. He dint eat very much greens though even though he usually eats them as much as crickets. Maybe he is not eating as much today as usual cause he had a big meal yesterday?

[Zoodulcis]

It’s a good thing you readjusted the settings. Turns out he may be too cold to have a great appetite. At this point, raising the heat lamp actually sounds like a bad idea. Take several more readings today if you can. His basking furniture may need to be moved closer to the heat source. Do not move anything closer to the UV light, for reasons concerning eye damaged as mentioned earlier.

[John]

He was eating as much as I would let him today. Whether it was chasing down crickets or just running to his greens. I’ve measured the temps 2 times earlier and they were about the same as I posted last time, give or take 1-2 degrees depending on where it was taken at, but pretty much the same. I just want to thank you and AB for all the help. One other question, I have calcium powder with D3, do I also need vitamin powder or something?

[Zoodulcis]

You definitely should have a vitamin supplement. It will add very different and equally essential nutrients to your beardie’s diet that will promote the health of muscles and organs as he grows. Since you have a UVB light source, you may want to alternate the calcium with D3 with one that is calcium alone. That way you don’t risk D3 toxicity. A lot of logistics to be considered, I know, but once these routines are in place, it becomes easier and your pet will definitely live longer.

[John]

Any good brands of vitamins I should get?, or are they all practically the same? So like use the calcium with D3 every couple days? And use the vitamins the other days?

[Zoodulcis]

Forum members have all had good results with Repashy and Fluker products. While he is growing, alternating between vitamins and minerals is a good routine. Eventually at around 8 months, you can offer either one twice per week. And don’t forget to gut-load all feeder insects for 24 hours (but no longer) prior to feeding. Flukers has an inexpensive gutload that is OK, not great, but convenient. If you are a DYI kinda person, be sure and look up the gutload formula included in the Beardie care guide available on this site.

[ABMoore22]

Im a little late here, sorry. Glad you got it figured out. Just wanted to add that they do have a calcium without d3 and vitamins and minerals with d3. Thats how i use them. so he only gets the d3 (besides from bulb) when you offer the vitamin/mineral powder.

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