Topics Forums Frogs – Pixies, Pacmans, & More! Pixie Frog Feeding Routines?

This topic contains 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by Avatar Zoodulcis 4 months, 3 weeks ago.

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  • #7142
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    melishkia
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    Pixie Frog Feeding Routines?

    HI!
    I’m new to the African Bullfrog- we recently acquired one about 3 weeks ago and have been thoroughly enjoying taking care of this big guy. He/she is still young, but eating larger prey like large crickets, superworms, and just a few waxworms. I was planning on feeding a frozen mouse soon and maybe trying dubia roaches. So far, he has a great appetite and seems to be very content in the set up I have for him. He’s growing fast so I know this won’t last long.. but he’s in a 10g with coconut fiber, moss layered on the top, one live plant, and a small water dish to soak in. The temp is usually about 79-81 during the day and down to 76 at night. Humidity is 70-75%. Each day, I change his water dish with dechlorinated water, during that time he gets to soak in a plastic tub of water for about 20 mins then switch to a new tub of water for another 20 mins.

    I am a little lost when it comes to feeding- I have found 2 different methods. 1) To feed the frog for 15 mins as many insects as he’s willing to take, or 2) to limit the amount of insects to about 6 large crickets/superworms/whatever. I have tried both methods, I kind of felt like he completely overate with the first method so I just wanted to know if others have suggestions.. I almost don’t think the Pixie frog ever feels “FULL” being why I don’t know if this is a good method. I have been feeding him daily but if he’s big enough I can back off to every other day or so. Thanks for reading!

  • #7144
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    melishkia
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    a photo of “Spike” soaking in his tub

  • #7148
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    Zoodulcis
    Moderator

    You are correct that a pixie frog seldom feels full and that this can be a concern for an owner. However, this growing youngster is going to need calcium in greater quantities than insects can provide. Age matters, and that is something that many blogs don’t address. In general, it is not good for very mature frogs of this species to overeat constantly. However, at this stage/age, this youngster should be able to tolerate a diet that might otherwise contribute to obesity in maturity. His/her diet that you feed now, may very well not be the diet you feed six months from now. For now, while this frog is still growing rapidly, do feed that well thawed, just above room temperature frozen pinky. Twice per week is not too much. Feed a few insects every day, just a few, for now. Feed a pinky every three-four days for the next several months, them back off to one fuzzy per week. In a year from now, you may end up feeding a fuzzy once every two weeks, and limiting his/her food to leaner meals such as crickets and mealworms and fewer waxworms.

    The philosophy for owners of growing youngsters is to be mindful of variety, nutrition and balance, rather than worrying about amounts. At sexual maturity for this species, you may need to begin to withhold food somewhat, allowing a brief fasting period to prevent obesity.

    This can be one of the most interesting, stressful and informative phases of pet ownership of reptiles and amphibians, that of care and feeding when you want to do the right thing.

    I like to frame my response to these questions in terms of survival. Human children crave sweets, and that is a correct craving for survival. In the ancestral environment, calories were hard to come by, unlike modern times. Energy might mean the difference between life and death. In a similar way, young amphibians, who in their ancestral environment may have been facing an uncertain food supply, have not gained adult hunting skills, and are still trying to grow despite all of that, need far more in the way of convenient nutrition than old, fat, wise adults.

    As a conscientious pet owner, keep in mind that this pet’s needs are going to change rapidly in the next 1-2 years, and you are going to need to keep up with those changes. At sexual maturity, you will be able to establish a weekly feeding routine that will vary little throughout the pet’s life span. Of course, you will need to be mindful of his/her habits. When your pet doesn’t come out of their hide for two weeks at three years old, it may be constipated, a common and potentially fatal ailment. Then, you may have to adjust diet and perform an intervention of forcing your pet to bath in mineral waters, dechlorinated of course, to stimulate the needed gut response. But for now, bear in mind that for a growing youngster, variety is the spice of life, and quantity questions can be put on hold for another day.